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Endemics bonanza trip report by Trevor Ellery


December 28th 2009 to January 15th 2010

Ruby Topaz - birding trip report by Trevor ElleryBirding El Dorado and the Caribbean by Trevor Ellery - This tour focused on seeing great birds at a reasonably relaxed and enjoyable pace around the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, with a good mix of endemics and rare species as well birds from a wide range of habitats - arid scrub, coastal wetlands, and lowland to montane forest.

Leader: Trevor Ellery

Participants: Guy Foulks and Debbie Hahn (USA)

Day 1, Feb 14th: Barranquilla, Salamanca, Riohacha

We had a 5.30am departure from the hotel Prada in Barranquilla for the half hour drive across town to a site on the western edge of the city. Here we immediately connected with the main target species, the endemic Chestnut-winged Chachalaca. Initial views were fleeting but then we located several individuals feeding in the flowering trees. They seemed fairly unconcerned at our prescence and we spent some time scoping them. All around the arid scrub bird community was awakening and along with commoner species such as Straight-billed Woodcreeper and Greyish Saltator, we added such notable species as Black-crested Antshrike and Chestnut Piculet. A small trail lead of into the undergrowth and our local guide suggested a short walk might be productive. We were rewarded with further views of the Chachalacas plus Glaucos Tanager, Russet-throated Puffbird, showy White-fringed Antwrens and a very tape responsive Black-backed Antshrike. Obviously the surrounding area held some wetlands as flyovers included several Egret species, Tricoloured Heron, Bare-faced Ibis and most surprisingly at least one Glossy Ibis.

As the day warmed up we drove back around Barranquilla and on to the Salamanca National Park headquarters. A fairly brief walk in the mangroves produced Bicoloured Conebill, Prothonotary Warblers, Northern Waterthrush, Red-rumped Woodpecker and best of all a pair of Common Black Hawks building a nest. The rather poor lagoon held Black-necked Stilt, Hudsonian Whimbrel, Willet, Lesser Yellowlegs and Spotted Sandpiper. By now it was late morning and we drifted through the rest of the park before stopping just outside of Cienega at fish restaurant next to the lagoon. Here we enjoyed an open air lunch while watching Brown Pelicans, Magnificent Frigatebirds, Neotropic Cormorants and Royal Terns. After lunch it was time to use the heat of the day for the long transfer to Rioacha. We arrived at Camarones, just short of Rioacha, with about an hour left to go birding. We quickly set about looking at the Guajira specialities such as Bare-eyed Pigeon, Buffy Hummingbird and White-whiskered Spinetail. We also had a nice flock of 5 White Ibis fly over and then rounded the day off with great views of a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl (our second of the day) perched low in roadside bushes while Lesser Nighthawks fed overhead.

Day 2: Camarones, Minca, El Dorado Bird Reserve

Our second day also began with a 5.30 am departure and this time it was back to the desert scrub of Camarones. Birding was a little slow to start, but then after initial brief glimpses, a little more searching brought fantastic views of two Vermillion Cardinals The male even perched out and began singing in full view. Other key birds included Slender-billed Inezia, Orinoco Saltator and Black-faced Grassquit. Both Yellow and Orange-crowned Orioles performed well as did a pair of vocal Rufous-tailed Jacamars. After a field breakfast we visited the lagoon. Here we found a good selection of terns including many Sandwich, plus a few each of Gull-billed, Cayenne, Caspian and Royal. Reddish Egrets fished in the shallows and a distant flock of Greater Flamingos were added to the fly over Roseate Spoonbills and Wood Storks we had seen early. We used the heat of the day for lunch and the transfer to Minca where we were to begin our ascent into the Santa Marta mountains.

We left Minca at 2pm and made one productive stop at a flowering tree on the way up. This held our 3rd Oriole of the day Yellow-backed, as well as many handsome Crested Oropendolas, Purple Honeycreepers and a concentration of hummers which included both Green and Sparkling Violetears. Migrants were represented by Tennessee Warbler and several Rose Breasted Grosbeaks.

We arrived at El Dorado lodge late afternoon and did a little gentle birding from the balcony. The fruit feeder were attracting Blue-naped Chlorophonia, and Black-capped and Blue- capped Tanagers while new hummers at the feeders included Tyrian Metaltail and the gorgeous Violet-crowned Woodnymph. Other birds seen in the garden or surrounding trees included Santa Marta Brush Finch, White-sided Flowerpiercer, Montane Woodcreeper, Black-chested Jay and Blackburnian Warbler. Red Mantled Howler Monkeys could be heard rumbling in the valley below.

Day 3: El Dorado Lodge

After a couple of early starts we decided to take things a bit more leisurely today and had a 6am breakfast. Before we left the lodge we had great views of a Crab Eating Fox taking scraps from behind the kitchen. We then headed up the road quickly finding a flashy young male White-tailed Starfrontlet feeding on roadside flowers. We soon added the endemic White-lored Warbler and had superb views of a male Masked Trogon that bizarrely ended up perched on the road. A Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush which hopped out in the background was an added bonus.

We joined lodge manager Christian for a banding session on the bromeliad trail. This was very productive especially for hummers. Many Green Violetears and Tyrian Metaltails were caught along with a single Mountain Velvetbreast but best of all was a single female Black-backed Thornbill. This Santa Marta endemic is virtually unknown in the field and usually restricted to high inaccessible paramo. Pro aves researchers however have discovered through banding that females occasionally visit the San Lorenzo ridge in the dry season, presumably an altitudinal migration related to food availability. We were truly lucky to be present when this bird was caught as only one or two are captured each year. Other highlights included a dazzling young male Purple Honeycreeper, good nos of Tennessee warblers and Olive-striped Flycatchers and a single Blackburnia Warbler. Overhead White-collared Swifts and Scarlet-fronted Parakeets whizzed by. We returned to the lodge for lunch and Christian spotted a group of Black-fronted Wood Quails feeding in a recently weeded area in the lodge garden. Everyone was able to get great close views of these handsome and jaunty birds before they scuttled of into thicker cover.

We started the afternoon birding at 3.30 pm and immediately found a pair of Golden-breasted Fruiteaters opposite the front doors of the lodge. A couple of minutes down the road from the lodge and a pair of Emerald Toucanets gave scope filling views. Even more exciting was the pair of Black-and-chestnut Eagles that sailed overhead quickly followed by a vocal White-rumped Hawk. Things then slowed down slightly but luckily picked up again in the late afternoon. Birding the road below the lodge we had great views of Golden-olive Woodpecker, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Black-and-white Warbler. Best of all though was a Lined Quail-Dove which sprinted across the road allowing everyone good, if brief, views. We returned to the lodge for another impressive sunset.

Day 4: El Dorado Lodge, San Lorenzo Ridge

An early start and we were birding the top of the San Lorenzo ridge at dawn. Brief views of a White-tipped Quetzal provided a good start but then in sunny and windy conditions things slowed right down. A flock of Santa Marta Parakeets dashed past flashing their multicoloured wings but otherwise we were struggling to find birds in the increasingly windblown vegetation. Eventually we found a flock and quickly added Santa Marta Mountain Tanager and Santa Marta Warbler. Skulkers included both Rusty-headed and Streak-capped Spinetails, while more showy were Cinnamon Flycatcher and the ubiquitous Great Thrushes. On the return journey to the car we found a nice concentration of hummers with the highlight being a female Santa Marta Woodstar a rare and difficult to connect with endemic. At least one glowing male White-tailed Starfrontlet duelled with the abundant Green Violetears and Tyrian Metaltails. A second mixed flock contained showy White-throated Tyrannulets, a Black-capped Tyrannulet and a Mountain Elaenia. A majestic King Vulture drifted overhead while more of a surprise was a Osprey heading NW and presumably a migrant. A pair of Andean Siskins were also present in the pines. On the journey back to the lodge a couple of stops added Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant and several obliging pairs of Scarlet-fronted Parakeets prospecting nest boxes in the wax palms. Guy managed brief views of a Band-tailed Guan before it dropped out of sight and a small group of Red-billed Parrots also showed well in roadside trees.

After lunch and a siesta we headed out at 4pm and birded the mirador trail. We were rewarded with much better views of White-tipped Quetzal. A confiding Grey-throated Leaftosser lived up to it name. Best of all though was the Santa Marta Antpitta which gave reasonable views after some tape playback. After dinner at the lodge a short frogging walk revealed a number of frogs of multiple species including the endangered Tayrona Glass Frog. Several spiders of assorted sizes and colours were also seen and added to the Armadillo that Debbie and Guy had seen from their balcony earlier in the day.

Day 5: El Dorado Lodge

We started the day by driving a short distance below the lodge to bird a slightly lower elevation. A Venezuelan Tyrranulet was a new bird with a mixed species flock on the first bend. Slightly lower and some playback of Rusty-breasted Antpittta soon had two birds responding. One individual was quite close and with a little patience we located this diminutive bird perched low in the roadside vegetation. Unfortunately it was facing in the opposite direction and it was only when it turned its head before flying off that we got a reasonable view. This was the beginning of an exciting half hour. A pair of Crimson-crested Woodpeckers put in a brief but showy appearance, a White-necked Thrush obligingly hopped along the road and then the morning's main target a Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner started calling. Clearly a pair were close by but they proved extremely elusive and it was only after much perseverance that reasonable views were had of a bird skulking in the undergrowth. The rest of the morning was spent birding down the road and around the school where the slightly more open habitat added such birds as Yellow-legged Thrush, White-lined Tanager and American Redstart.

After some fairly long birding days everybody felt like a relaxed afternoon so we birded from the deck. Both White-rumped and Broad-winged Hawks provided excellent digiscoping opportunities as they perched up while Blue-naped Chlorophonias, and Black-capped and Blue-capped Tanagers and various hummers were also obliging. A mix of the commoner flock species passed by best of all being a Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, although it was gone so quickly that frustratingly guy failed to get on to it. Later in the evening another visiting group were going owling so we joined them. A pair of Santa Marta Screech Owl were very responsive to tape playback but always perched out of view. Eventually reasonable flight views were had of one individual crossing the road just above the observer's heads.

Day 6: El Dorado Lodge

The main target for this morning was to try to find a Black-throated Tody-Tyrant for Guy. To begin we birded around the lodge adding Southern-yellow Grosbeak and a Plain-breasted Hawk that dive bombed a perched White-rumped. Failing to find a Tody-Tyrant we decided to head up the bromeliad trail getting more great views of the showy young White-tailed Starfrontlet on the first bend. The climb up the bromeliad trail provided fantastic views of Santa Marta and the Caribbean far below and also a fly by group of Chestnut-collared Swifts. At the top of the trail we birded just below the ridge finding a Streak-throated Bush Tyrant and watching another presumably migrant Osprey pass over. We decided to make our descent along the longer but more gently sloping road. We had great views of several White-tipped Quetzals on the roadside and then more excitingly we found a Yellow-throated Warbler in a mixed flock. This bird was first seen in November and has clearly spent the winter in the same patch of forest. It represent about the fourth record for Colombia. A final treat was when we located a Black-throated Tody-Tyrant in an under storey flock which also held a Spotted Barbtail.

After what had been a long morning's hike we decided to spend the afternoon banding with Christian close to the lodge. The banding was fairly slow but did include close in the hand views of species such as Bay-headed Tanager, Black-hooded Thrush and another sparkling male Blackburnian Warbler. While sitting around drinking coffee between net rounds we were able to enjoy more great views of birds such as male Golden-breasted Fruiteater and another pair of Crimson-crested Woodpeckers.

Day 7: El Dorado - Minca Road

The last day started early with a 4.30 am breakfast before the hour long decent to the coffee zone just above Minca. We started birding just after first light and were soon watching a skulking but very vocal Rosy-thrush Tanager. A Ferruginous Pygmy Owl started calling nearby and this proved to be very fortuitous. Whilst we couldn't see the owl in a dense tangle its persistent calling attracted a huge amount of attention from the local birdlife and it chosen tree was soon surrounded by a large and excited mobbing flock. The gathering crowd included Black-headed and Swallow Tanagers, Buff-throated and Streaked Saltators, a Blue-crowned Motmomt and best of all one of the mornings main target species a Golden-winged Sparrow. It took some time to drag ourselves away but eventually we continued birding down the road towards Minca. We added many new species including a nice perched Scaled Pigeon, new hummers such as White-vented Plumleteer, and White-necked Jacobin and several pairs of Rufous-and-White Wren. North American migrants were well represented with plenty of American Redstarts, Blackburnian, Tennessee and Black-and-white Warblers and some showy Summer Tanagers. A Grey-lined Hawk passed low overhead Rufous- capped and Golden-crowned Warblers flicked through the undergrowth, Orange-chinned Parakeets fed in roadside trees and new flycatchers included Streaked, Boat-billed and Dusky-capped. A Lineated Woodpecker was a nice bonus. As the day warmed up and the activity gradually slowed right down we headed for lunch and totted up the final tour checklist. We then dropped Guy and Debbie at a coastal hotel where they planned a few relaxing days after a busy weeks birding.

Annotated Checklist

This list does not follow exact systematic order but rather the order that the birds are placed in RestallS birds of Northern South America. Brief details are given of the more interesting sightings.

1. Black-fronted Wood Quail (Odontophorus Atrifons). Excellent views of a covey of 4 birds were obtained on two days when the birds were found foraging in the garden behind the kitchen at El Dorado lodge.
2. Chestnut-winged Chachalaca (Ortalis garrula). More than ten individuals were seen very well feeding in flowering trees at a site near Barranquilla.
3. Band-tailed Guan (Penelope argyrotis) A single individual seen beside the road above the El Dorado lodge.
4. Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata Magnificens)
5. Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)
6. Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis)
7. Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea)
8. Tricoloured heron (Egretta tricolour)
9. Reddish Egret (Egretta rufescens)
10. Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
11. Great Egret (Ardrea Alba)
12. Cattle Egret (Bulbulcus ibis)
13. Striated Heron (Butorides striata)
14. White Ibis (Eudocimus albus). Small groups seen in flight at Camarones.
15. Bare-faced Ibis (Phimosus infuscatus berlepschi)
16. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus)
17. Limpkin (Aramus guarauna guarauna)
18. Roseate Spoonbill (Platalea ajaja)
19. Wood Stork (Mycteria Americana)
20. Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber)
21. Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
22. Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
23. Lesser Yellow headed Vulture (Cathartes burrovianus). Seen over the desert scrub at Barranquilla
24. King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa). Several seen around the San Lorenzo ridge Santa Marta mountains
25. Osprey (Pandion haliaetus carolinensis)
26. Plain-breasted Hawk (Accipter Ventralis)
27. Common Black Hawk (Buteogallus anthracinus)
28. Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus)
29. Savanna Hawk (Buteogallus meridionalis)
30. Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)
31. Grey-lined Hawk (Asturina nitida)
32. Broad-winged Hawk (Buteo platypterus)
33. White-rumped Hawk (Buteo leucorrhous)
34. Black-and-Chestnut Eagle (Oroaetus isidori). A pair seen near the lodge at El Dorado
35. Northern Caracara (Caracara cheriway)
36. Yellow-headed Caracara (Milvago chimachima)
37. America Kestrel (Falco Sparverius)
38. Peregrine Falcon (Falco Peregrinus)
39. Black-bellied (Grey)
Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
40. Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis)
41. American Oystercatcher (Haematopes palliatus)
42. Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus)
43. Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana)
44. (Hudsonian)
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
45. Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes)
46. Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius)
47. Willet (Catoptrophorus semipalmatus)
48. Laughing Gull (Larus atricilla)
49. Royal Tern (Thalasseus maximus)
50. Gull-billed Tern (Gelochelidon nilotica)
51. Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia)
52. Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger)
53. Sandwich Tern (Thalasseus sandvicensis)
54. Cayenne Tern (Thalasseus eurygnathus). Several present among Sandwich Terns at Camarones
55. Scaled Pigeon (Patagioenas seciosa)
56. Bare-eyed Pigeon (Patagioenas corensis) Common at Camarones
57. Band-tailed Pigeon (Patagioenas fasciata)
58. Common Ground Dove (Columbina passerina)
59. Ruddy Ground Dove (Columbina talpacoti)
60. White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi)
61. Lined Quail-Dove (Geotrygon linearis). Seen on the road below the lodge at El Dorado.
62. Scarlet-fronted Parakeet (Aratinga wagleri)
63. Brown-throated Parakeet (Aratinga pertinax)
64. Santa Marta Parakeet (Pyrrhura viridicata). Seen on the ridge top at San Lorenzo
65. Orange-chinned Parakeet (Brotogeris jugularis)
66. Green-rumped Parrotlet (Forpus passerinus)
67. Red-billed Parrot (Pionus sordidus)
68. Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
69. Groove-billed Ani (Crotophaga sulcirostris)
70. Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga Ani)
71. Santa Marta Screech Owl (Megascops gilesi). Seen briefly below the lodge at El Dorado
72. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium brasilianum)
73. Lesser Nighthawk (Chordeiles acutipennis)
74. Band-winged Nightjar (Caprimulgus longirostris)
75. White-collared Swift (Streptoprocne zonaris)
76. Chestnut-collared Swift (Streptoprocne rutila)
77. Green Violetear (Colibri thalassinus)
78. Sparkling Violetear (Coloibri coruscans)
79. White-necked Jacobin (Florisgua mellivora)
80. Red-billed Emerald (Chlorostilbon gibsoni)
81. Shining Green Hummingbird (Lepidopyga goudoti)
82. Violet-crowned Woodnymph (Thalurania colombica)
83. Buffy Hummingbird (Leucippus fallax)
84. White-vented Plumleteer (Chalybura buffoni)
85. Mountain Velvetbreast (Lafresnaya lafresnayi)
86. White-tailed Starfrontlet (Coeligena phalerata) Seen near the lodge at El Dorado and also on the ridge top
87. Tyrian Metaltail (Metallura tyrianthina)
88. Black-backed Thornbill (Ramphomicron dorsale)
89. Santa Marta Woodstar (Chaetocercus astreans) A female seen on the San Lorenzo ridge.
90. Masked Trogon (Trogon personatus)
91. White-tipped Quetzal (Pharomachrus fulgidus)
92. Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata)
93. Green Kingfisher (Chloroceryle Americana)
94. Blue-crowned Motmot (Momotus momota)
95. Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda)
96. Russet-throated Puffbird (Hypnelus ruficollis)
97. Emerald Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus prasinus)
98. Keel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos sulfuratus)
99. Chestnut Piculet (Picumnus cinnamomeus) Seen near Barranquilla and at Camarones
100. Red-crowned Woodpecker (Melanerpes rubricapillus)
101. Red-rumped Woodpecker (Veniliornis kirkii)
102. Golden-olive Woodpecker (Piculus rubiginous)
103. Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos)
104. Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus)
105. Pale-legged Hornero (Furnaris leucopus)
106. White-whiskered Spinetail (Synallaxis candei)
107. Rusty-headed Spinetail (Synallaxis fuscorufa)
108. Pale-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albescens)
109. Spotted Barbtail (Premnoplex brunnescens)
110. Streak-capped Spinetail (Cranioleuca hellmayri)
111. Montane Foliage-gleaner (Anabacerthia striaticollis)
112. Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner. Seen along the road below El Dorado lodge
113. Grey-throated Leaftosser (Sclerurus albigularis) Seen along the Mirador trail at El Dorado Lodge.
114. Plain-brown Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)
115. Strong-billed Woodcreeper (Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus)
116. montane woodcreeper
117. black crested antshrike
118. black backed antshrike
119. slaty antwren
120. white fringed antwren
121. santa marta antpitta
122. rusty breasted antpitta
123. olive striped flycatcher
124. common tody flycatcher
125. black throated tody tyrant
126. black capped tyrannulet
127. Venezuelan tyrannulet
128. golden faced tyrannulet
129. southern beardless tyrannulet
130. northern scrub flycatcher
131. yellow bellied elania
132. white thraoed tyrranulet
133. mountain elainia
134. slende billed inezia
135. cinnamon flycatcher
136. vermillion flycactehr
137. streak throated bush tyrant
138. pied watewr tyrant
139. brown crested flycatcher
140. dusky capped flycacterh
141. tropical kingbird
142. fork tailed flycatcher
143. streaked flycactehr
144. boat billed flycatcher
145. great kiskadee
146. golden crowned flycactehr
147. golden breasted fruiteater
148. cinnamon becard
149. masked tityra
150. brown capped vireo
151. Golden fronted Greenlet
152. Black chested Jay
153. Blue and White Swallow
154. Southern Martin
155. Southern Rough winged Swallow
156. Bicoloured Wren
157. Grey breasted Wood wren
158. Southern House Wren
159. rufous and white wren
160. buff breasted wren
161. Slaty backed nightingale thrush
162. Yellow legged thrush
163. white necked thrush
164. Great thrush
165. Black hooded thrush
166. Pale breasted thrush
167. Tropical mockingbird
168. Rosy thrush Tanager
169. White lined Tanager
170. Summer Tanager
171. Crimson backed Tanager
172. Blue grey tanager
173. Blue capped Tanager
174. Glaucos Tanager
175. Santa Marta Mountain Tanager
176. Buff breasted Mountain Tanager
177. Bay headed Tanbager
178. Black Capped Tanager
179. Swallow Tanager
180. Black headed Tanager
181. Bannabaquit
182. Red legged Honeycreeper
183. Purple Honeycreeper
184. Bicoloured Conebill
185. White sided flowerpiercer
186. rusty flowerpiercer
187. rufous collared sparrow
188. Black faced grassquit
189. dull coloured grassquit
190. blu black grassquit
191. Golden winged Sparrow
192. Santa Marta Brush finch
193. stripe headed brush finch
194. Southern yellow grosbeak
195. rose breasted grosbeak
196. Vermillion Cardinal
197. Buff throated saltator
198. streaked saltator
199. greyish saltator
200. Orinoco Salatataor
201. Blackburnina warbler
202. Tennesse warbler
203. yellow throated warbler
204. yellow warbler
205. phrophonotary warbler
206. black and white warbler
207. American redstart
208. northern waterthrush
209. slate throated whitestart
210. yellow crowned whitestart
211. santa marta warbler
212. golden crowned warbler
213. white lored warbler
214. rufous capped warbler
215. Crested Oropendola
216. Yellow backed oriole
217. Yellow Oriole
218. Orange crowned Oriole
219. Great tailed Grackle
220. Carib Grackle
221. Giant Cowbird
222. Andean Siskin
223. Trinidad Euphonia
224. Thick billed Euphonia
225. Blue napped Chlorophonia

Heard Only
Rufous vented Chachalaca
Barred Forest Falcon
Collared Forest Falcon
Brown rumped Tapaculo
Bright Rumped Attila

EcoTurs Colombia runs birding and wildlife tours in Colombia. We offer specialised birding tours with experienced tour leaders, customized private birdwatching trips, and scheduled tours and some more general wildlife tours. 100% of profits support nature reserves in Colombia.

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